Lockouts & openings
Lost combination, dead electronic lock, jammed bolt work, a key safe with no key. Non-destructive methods first; drilling only as a last resort, in a spot that can be repaired.
Commercial › Safes and vaults
Safes and Vaults — Opened, Repaired, Recombinated and Installed
The combination is lost, the keypad is dead, the bolt is jammed, or the safe came with the house and nobody knows the code. I open it without wrecking it wherever that's possible, get it working again, and set a combination only you know.
(559) 862-5852License #LCO6853 · Homes and businesses · Proof of ownership required
Safe work
What I do with safes
Combination changes
New safe, new staff, or you're the only one who should know the code. Dial combinations reset and electronic codes changed, with the old one confirmed dead.
Electronic lock replacement
Keypads that eat batteries, beep and do nothing, or have simply died. Replaced with a reliable electronic lock, or converted back to a dial if you prefer.
Repairs
Handles that spin, doors that won't close, relockers that have fired, hinges that have dropped. Diagnosed and fixed rather than replaced where the safe is sound.
Installation & bolting down
A safe that isn't anchored is a safe that leaves with the burglar. New and existing safes bolted to concrete or framing, positioned where they're usable.
Advice before you buy
Fire rating versus burglary rating, what size you actually need, where to put it. Ten minutes on the phone can save you buying the wrong safe twice.
How it works
What happens when your safe won't open
1. Tell me about the safe
Brand, roughly what size, dial or keypad, and what it's doing. A photo by text is ideal. I'll tell you what's likely involved and quote for it.
2. Ownership, then non-destructive first
I check the safe or the premises are yours, then work through the gentlest methods first. Most safes open without a mark.
3. Open, repaired, new combination
Once it's open I fix what failed, set a fresh combination that only you know, and make sure it opens and locks cleanly before I leave.
Straight talk
When a safe has to be drilled
Some safes — a failed electronic lock with no override, a relocker that's fired, a high-security container — genuinely cannot be opened without drilling. If that's the case with yours, I'll tell you before I start, explain where and why, and quote for the repair as well as the opening. A properly drilled and repaired safe is fully usable afterwards. A safe attacked with an angle grinder by someone on YouTube is scrap.
- Non-destructive methods always tried first
- Drilling explained and agreed before it happens
- Drill point repaired and the safe returned to service
- Proof of ownership required — ID plus ownership of the safe or the premises
Safe questions
What people ask
Can you open my safe without destroying it?
In most cases, yes. I try manipulation and non-destructive methods first. If drilling is the only option I explain that beforehand, drill in a spot that can be repaired, and the safe is usable again afterwards.
Do you need proof the safe is mine?
Yes. ID, plus proof of ownership of the safe or of the premises it's in. For a business, the owner or an authorized manager needs to be present. No exceptions — it's the same rule that protects your safe from everyone else.
I bought a house with a safe in it and no combination. Can you help?
Yes, that's a common one. With proof that you own the property I can open it, reset the combination for you, and make sure it's working properly.
Do you work on gun safes?
Yes — openings, lock replacement, combination changes and bolting down, for both dial and electronic gun safes.